Waikiki, the world’s most famous beach resort, was literally spit out of the flames and heat of the cataclysmic eruption of Diamond Head – also a world famous landmark that now seems to serve as a historic marker and sentinel watching over the beautiful curve of beach known as Waikiki.

In 300 A.D., Waikiki, which translates to”spouting waters”, was literally a pristine wetland of abundant flora and fauna that joined the two great valleys above it to the seacoast.  Rainwater from Manoa and Palolo valley ran freely to the sea by three major streams, the Apuakehau, which emptied where the Surfrider Hotel stands today; – the Kuekaumahi  which is now Kapahulu Avenue, and the, Piianaio  which flowed into the ocean where Ft. De Russy  and the Reef Hotel now stand.

Sometime between 800 and 1200 A.D. the first Polynesians arrived in Waikiki to discover its rich wetland eventually establishing settlements along the coast stretching from the top of the valleys to the outer edges of the reef.  It was extremely well suited for farming wetland and dryland crops, fishing, and a host of other activities to sustain life and support a large community. 

The original Waikiki district, as an ancient feudal territorial division actually included iincluding Manoa, Palolo, Niu, Kuliouou valleys. 

1450 AD King Ma’ilikukahi, ruler of Oahu, moves his capital from the leeward coast of the island to Waikiki.  Under this benevolent king , with the abundance of fresh water, major resource development occurs of fish ponds, wetland farms of taro and other crops. Coastal management of the abundant sea life which included fish, mussels, seaweeds, and shell fish populations reaches unprecedented heights of sophistication.  The climate is near perfect for rest and relaxation and Waikiki becomes an primary place of healing and recreation for both chiefs and commoners.  The king, beloved by his people, welcomes all strangers to his domain and sets a high standard for hosting guests

Between 1760 - 1795 the island  of Oahu and particularly Waikiki is coveted by the powerful King Kahekili of the island  of Maui.  He wages war, conquers Oahu and adds this prized island  to his domain. King Kahekili remains on Maui assigns his son Kalanikapule to rule Oahu.

The plot thickens when an ambitious and increasingly powerful chief from the big island of Hawai’i, whose ambition is to conquer all the islands and unite them into one kingdom, .Kamehameha, the Great defeats King Kahekili, takes possession of Maui, then invades Waikiki and defeats Kalanikapule in the famous battle of Nuuanu Pali. For the time being he maintains Waikiki as the Capitol of Oahu.By 1795 Kamehameha has realized his ambition by conquest and joins the islands under one rule. The Kingdom  of Hawai’i is established.  By now Hawai’i has been “discovered” by the European powers, the United  States, and Japan which triggers the introduction of a market economy to Hawai’i.  Trade and commerce begin to flourish and Honolulu  Harbor – a few miles west of Waikiki – rises as the major port of call for the merchant ships of the world needing provisions and looking to trade. So, Kamehameha moves the capitol of Oahu from Waikiki to Honolulu.

Kamehameha pursues Kalanikupule, ruler of Oahu, from the beaches of Waikiki, up the Nuuanu Valley above Honolulu and in a dramatic battle drives the enemy army over the Pali (cliffs).  Kalanikupule escapes but is later captured and offered in sacrifice at the alter of Papa`ena`ena heiau (temple) on the slopes of Diamond Head.

In spite of the move of the capitol to Honolulu, Waikiki continues its popularity as a place of healing. Waikiki’s healing reputation is transmitted through a famous legend of the arrival of four soothsayers and healers from Tahiti who are said to have left behind four great stones as a reminder of their stay in Waikiki when they returned to Tahiti. Surfing becomes a major activity as well as fishing and other recreational activities.  As the family of Kamehameha grows Waikiki becomes a Royal Retreat for his dynasty to rest and entertain.

People came to Waikiki on outings to enjoy the beauty of the setting as painted by Enoch Wood Perry in 1865.  Collection of the Bishop Museum.		The four large boulders, the so called “Wizard Stones” of Waikiki, are part of Waikiki’s healing legend.

Waikiki’s long breaking waves has attracted surfers through the ages.  It is considered the home of the surfing tradition which has become Hawai‘i’s sporting gift to the world.		Fishermen took advantage of Wakiki’s sands to set out for the reef and deeper waters beyond.  Hand colored photograph, c. 1900.

One of several cottages at Hamohamo, Queen Liliuokalani’s Waikiki residence. This area is now the corner of Liliuokalani Street and Kuhio Avenue.		The James Castle home, Kainalu, c. 1902, today the site of the Elks Club.

In a demand for more infrastructure to support the district’s development a road connecting Waikiki to Honolulu is constructed through the wetlands and what  taro fields still remained.  There was now a transportation conduit to allow for goods and services to be accessed from the capitol of Honolulu.

One of several cottages at Hamohamo, Queen Liliuokalani’s Waikiki residence. This area is now the corner of Liliuokalani Street and Kuhio Avenue.

In the 1870’s  a most remarkable activity ensued when enterprising Chinese and Japanese farmers launched an attempt to convert the deserted wetlands landscape into rice fields and duck ponds.

Duck ponds replaced fish ponds.

In the 1880’s Waikiki continues its popularity as a play to play and then King Kalakaua dedicates a significant parcel of land at the base of Diamond Head in honor of his wife and the Queen Kapiolani Park is created in the tradition of New York’s Central Park and San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.  A new major recreational diversion dominates the Waikiki weekends when a horse racing track complete with grandstand opened in 1883.  It was demolished in 1914 partly because of the rather obnoxiousbut to be expected rise of gambling.

In 1881 the first seeds of modern day tourism sprouts with the construction of the first two commercial bath houses on the beach at Waikiki. They were the Long Branch and the Occidental. Others to follow were the Ilaniwai Baths, Wrights Villas, Waikiki Inn( at Kuhio Beach), the Waikiki Villas(near the Sheraton Waikiki), the  Saratoga Baths (near the Outrigger Reef Hotel) and  The Old Waikiki which later became the Niumalu Hotel and is now part of the site of the Hilton  Hawaiian Village.

The Waikiki Inn, a popular bath house and hotel placed this ad in a 1915 magazine.		The Old Waikiki, c. 1925, later the Niumalu hotel, offered accommodations in Kalia, now the site of the Hilton  Hawaiian Village.

Waikiki tourism takes another step forward in 1888 when the first full service hotel, the Park Beach, is established by adding 10 rooms for overnight stays to the bathouse.  A new era begins. In 1901 Waikiki begins it’s climb to global recognition as a visitor destination with the building of its first historic architectural treasure – The Moana Hotel. The hotel features a spectacular 300 foot pier and elegant rooftop restaurant which becomes an internationally renowned watering hole for wealthy travelers who can afford to travel to Waikiki.   Fully restored, the Moana remains a Waikiki showpiece.

The rooms are the height of fashion for its day.  Built to serve the growing number of cruise ship arrivals of 10,000 visitors per year in the first ten years.		The Moana in all its splendor is at the center of a world-renowned destination.

Then in 1920 the most dramatic re-development of the Waikiki landscape is triggered that ushers in a new age of the urbanization of Waikiki. The wetlands are declared to be a health hazard and the wetlands are drained by the construction of the Ala Wai Canal.  the canal is completed in 1928. The lands are reclaimed, subdivided into 5000 square foot lots, and sold in fee simple.  Real estate development turns rural Waikiki into a suburb.

In 1927 A new star is born in Waikiki with the construction of the glamorous Royal Hawaiian hotel which joins the classic Moana hotel as two pillars of luxury in the worlds most exotic tropical location. Waikiki tourism seriously escalates for the world’s rich and famous.

The Ala Wai Canal and suburbanized Waikiki.

1927 witnesses more attempts to create recreational opportunities for “destination Waikiki”  with the building of the historic Waikiki Natatorium War.  A massive 100 yard by 40 yards wide Olympic swimming pool with the most unique feature of being on the beach and fed by ocean water.  Several medal winning Olympians bring fame to this magnificent architectural wonder beginning with Hawaiian Olympian Duke Kahanamoku and joined by other world renowned swimmers such as Ford Kono, Dick Cleveland, Johnny Weismuller and Buster Crabbe.

The Natatorium (c. 1935), a war memorial honoring the troops of world War I, was the site of many swimming and diving competitions.  It was affectionately referred to by locals as the “tank”.		Olympic swimming medalist Duke Kahanamoku spurred the revival in surfing that led to the global growth of this great Hawaiian sport.

This period also sees The Honolulu Zoo added as another attraction to the Waikiki landscape.  The zoo is built on 40 acres of Queen Kaiolani Park.land and is made part of the queen’s trust.

The Moana in all its splendor is at the center of a world-renowned destination.

1934 marks the beginning of  Waikiki moving into full swing with the rise of “hapa-haole”   Hawaiian music’s worldwide popularity.  It begins when Harry Owens and his big band take over the Monarch Room at the Royal Hawaiian hotel and become an icon and global purveyor of popular Hawaiian music.  A milestone event occurs with the launching of the popular worldwide radio show Hawai’i  Calls. Many new stars are created in Waikiki which include Hilo Hattie, Andy Cummings, Alfred Apaka, Sterling Mossman, and others.  Visiting entertainment celebrities such as Bing Crosby,  Shirley Temple, Groucho Marx, Clark Gable and Carol Lombard.  Waikiki’s reputation grows exponentially as a first class destination and takes top honors as the most famous beach in the world.

Hilo Hattie, c. 1938.		Alfred Apaka performing at Henry Kaiser’s Hawaiian Village, c. 1955.

Henry Kapono a popular contemporary songwriter and musician in Waikiki.		Don Ho and songstress daughter Hoku.

1941 – 1945 the Second World War interrupts the flow of tourists to Waikiki. It becomes a rest and recreation area for soldiers and sailors coming and going to the war in the Pacific. Waikiki becomes the last stop for those on their way to war – not knowing if they will come back – and it’s the first stop on American soil on their way back.  It is a place of high emotion and bittersweet memories. Waikiki becomes home to hundreds of wartime romances.  The Royal Hawaiian Hotel is  temporarily turned into a rest and recreation facility military personnel.  Ironically, thousands of these soldiers and sailors – after the war – will form the basis of Waikiki’s early  boom years as they return to Waikiki with their wives and families to revisit the magic of Waikiki.

The second world war years changed the visitor mix, with the Royal under military command as a rest and recreation facility.

From pre-historic wetlands to modern times Waikiki has worn many faces.  In this, the first quarter of the 21st century she is once again transforming herself – this time into a revitalized and refreshed urban beach resort as new government and private investment usher in a new era.

Waikiki continues its magical allure for millions of people.		Change continues to remake Waikiki, with infrastructure improvements and new landscaping.